Leather Grading: Why 1st Grade Quality Can Vary

Antonia Marino

When buying the same leather again and again, you may have noticed that the quality can vary from one purchase to another. This is because leather grading is not based on a universal standard but rather a sorting system used by individual tanneries. 

Percentage-Based Allocation

Rather than applying a fixed, industry-wide standard, tanneries often allocate a set percentage of each batch to different grades. For example:

10–20% as 1st grade – premium quality with minimal defects

30–40% as 2nd grade – good but with minor imperfections

Remaining as lower grades – more visible flaws but still usable

This means that the overall quality of the hides in a batch affects what qualifies as 1st grade, 2nd grade etc. If that particular batch is of exceptional quality, the 1st-grade selection will be outstanding. The next one may contains more flaws, so even the best hides available may not meet the same standard as another batch’s 1st grade.

Why 1st Grade Quality Can Vary

Since each batch of hides is different, the definition of "1st grade" shifts depending on what’s available. This is why a piece of 1st-grade leather from one shipment, at the same cost to you, may not look the same. Factors that influence batch quality include:

Seasonal changes affecting the animals' condition

Breed and age of the animal

Processing conditions at the tannery

How Tanneries Grade Leather

The tannery will sort leather into different grades based on the number and severity of imperfections on each hide. These imperfections can include scars, bug bites, stretch marks, branding marks, and variations in texture. The highest quality sections, within their allocation percentage, are classified as 1st grade, the next designated as 2nd, 3rd, or lower grades etc depending on the tannery’s grading system.

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